![]() ![]() ![]() It can take some time and experimentation to find out what method works best for your individual situation. Like rabbit raising, tanning also has it's own learning curve. I guess you also need a bucket, gloves, and a good fleshing knife. ![]() The only things not included are salt, baking soda(necessary for neutralizing acids), and litmus strips for checking PH.(not necessary but extremely helpful and strongly recommended, can be ordered from ) Salt, rehydrate, pickle, degrease and final flesh, tan, oil, dry and break. It comes with relatively easy to follow instructions. This is my personal favorite beginners kit: They do have the downside of being more expensive than alum. I like to use commercial tanning products. As soon as you see a patch of white on the hide (first sign of drying) work the hide back and forth over the railing until it is all white, soft and dry (yes that takes some time) That's it, you're done, you have a soft, tanned rabbit hide (or several hides as the case may be) Once tanned, take them out and rinse them again, then hang them over the porch railing or a saw horse to dry. Now put them back in the solution for at least another week, but can be up to a year if you don't get to them before then. You will want to stir them twice a day for a week, then take them out and rinse them, then remove any remaining flesh off the inside of the hide. Put a ceramic plate to any non reactive flat disk over the hides in the solution, then the brick or rock to hold them down. Run 1 gallon of hot water into the bucket, add salt and stir to dissolve. Most of the ingredients, and the salted pelt.I do the battery acid and salt tanning solution in a 5 gallon plastic bucket.Ĩ oz. If slip has already set in, the pickle will stabilize the pelt, if it hasn't, it will prevent it from happening. The pickle plumps the pelt, makes fleshing a bit easier and MOST IMPORTANTLY, prevents bacterial growth. It's already been rough fleshed and salted. I chose a pretty gold tipped blue steel rabbit pelt for this experiment. why not?)ħ break(stretch and soften) pelt while drying. neutralize (20 minutes in water with baking soda) then drain (I use towels to absorb extra water from the pelt.cause. final flesh (a thicker hide you would return to the pickle for a day, but rabbits are so thin-skinned, I've never found it necessary.)Ĥ. salt (overnight, or I'll store them salted and use whenever)ģ. Time to see if cheap store bought vinegar can be used to replace one of chemicals I normally buy.Ģ. There's as many ways to tan as there are tanners, after all It's important to learn a lot of different ways and chose what is best for your situation. Letting me drag out the process for 2 weeks if I'm too busy to get to it, making fleshing a bit easier, and stopping slip if it's already begun. My bottle doesn't say that, but I'm sure it can be done by skipping the pickle step altogether, fleshing the raw or salted pelt, and brushing on the tan right after the salt is rinsed away.Īh well, pickling still has it's uses, for example making 100% sure that the fur stays on the pelt. Hey, the bottle in the pic on the website says it can work with just salt. Some litmus strips, to make sure acidity remains stable, and a big bag of cheap stock salt. If it's wetted after breaking, it will need to be re-broken though. Seems to work especially well on rabbits. It's a brush-on, it tans and oils the at the same time. It would do at least couple deer, or a whole bunch of rabbits. Lets go with, cheap vinegar (acetic acid), and rittels qwik-n-eze tan. I've also used citric acid with fine results. I've been using rittel's saftee acid as a pickle for a while now (normally, a tan is not called a pickle, a pickle is a separate step, to prep a pelt for tanning). ![]()
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